The SHCS used to tighten various parts of the lathe are great if you only need to do that once in a while. Now that I have a die holder, replacing those is the next project. Most implementations of the handles involves knurling but I find the t-bar style more effective, esp. when you have oily hands.
Some 8mm drill rod (silver steel), 1/8” shafting from surplus mechanical aircraft instruments and a 10-32 die result in these:
These are a joy to use, the T-bar gives very fine control over the torque you apply without requiring a lot of finger pressure. I can lock the cross slide, carriage stop and the 2 tail stock features easily without hunting for a hex key.
Machining in a condo/apartment brings with it some restrictions. One is controlling chips that like to fly everywhere, the other is noise and vibration. Having done some of the work so far in the hobby room 11 floors down, I would prefer to do as much work at home.
Reusing the Plexiglas from another project, I built a folding lid and support. An additional shield mounts to the carriage and lastly one on the head stock to keep stuff from going to the left. Drilling brackets is made easier with the milling attachment, excellent control of position etc.
In practice the shields do quite well. Sometimes swarf/chips still come out the front so I will no doubt do a Mk 2 version later on.
With that under control, I moved to the vibration issue. Noise travels in interesting ways in concrete buildings, our condo is no exception. Keeping the noise down keeps the cats happy as well.
I made silicone isolation bumpers from bath tub sealer. The mold is part of a roll-on deodorant cap. Fill half way with sealant, smooth out and let it cure for a few hours (this type of silicone air cures, nothing much seems to speed up the process). Fill to top of mold with more sealant, smooth out and let it all cure for 2 days. 3 of these do a wonderful job! 2 go on the LH side of the mounting board, one in middle on RH side. (RH side does not have a lot of weight on it)
The end result of today’s efforts is a tidier work environment that I can use even in the evenings.
I did some planning for the modifications and additions I want/need to make. One of those involves turning down 8mm drill rod to .1562 to tap as 10-32 thread. Rather than cut, stop to measure, guess how much more to go, cut, etc. I wanted to mount a digital gauge on the cross slide. This would let me cut until I reached a reading of half the required diameter.
Inspiration came from Start Model Engineering. I already had the gauge as I previously built the same thing for the Unimat.
Having the slitting saw made it easy to cut some ‘mystery’ aluminum from Home Depot to size. Mounting is by super-glue for now until I am sure where to drill holes for more permanent mounting.
Cutting metal by hand is tiring and doing it accurately is difficult. Next up is a slitting saw arbor. This lets me use a metal cutting blade to accurately cut bits of metal, plastic and even wood.
Taig sells blank saw arbors, you just need to turn the end down to fit your blade. My blades have a 13mm hole so that is what got cut. No problem cutting stuff now! The big stuff of course still gets done on the 4×6 horizontal band-saw .
My saw blades come from CTC Tools, a great online shop for quality tools.
Threading using a die has challenges in keeping the thread from wandering. Not too difficult if the length is only 1-2 times the diameter but it gets worse if you need a longer thread. Besides screw cutting using a leadscrew there is also the die holder.
Dies are typically 13/16” or 1” diameter. I already have a holder for the small dies so:
Cut off a length of 1.5” steel, mount in chuck (reverse the jaws) and steady the outer end with the steady rest. You will be doing a lot of sideways cutting and without the steady rest the piece will pop out of the chuck.
Center drill, then drill out to 7/16 in steps. Use a boring bar to open up the hole to .997 which is the diameter of the dead center. Then open up to depth of die and out to 1”. Drill 2 holes radially 90 degrees apart, tap for 10-32. A hole sized for one of the 3-jaw tommy bars keeps the holder from turning.
You can now thread without wandering. Place a die in the holder, and the holder onto the dead center. Use the spindle wrench to turn the part/spindle into the die. Even better is to add a drive handle to the spindle, a later project.
Do not try to thread under power, things will happen too quickly and likely result in damage to lathe and/or to you.