I need a boring head. I can buy one, I can make one. Being cheap, actually being selective on what I spend my $ on, I will make one. There are plenty of examples to base my design, some complex, some simple. The challenge is to build one without buying more tools such as dovetail cutters.
To get started, I ordered a 12×1 tap set (starting, regular and bottoming) from RDG Tools in UK. I had some scrap steel so off we went. Not sure what I will use the end result for but it proves to myself that I can make accurate gadgets.
The hole was bored out to 11mm using a boring tool and my Starrett hole gauge. The hole was counterbored to 12mm for 4mm or so to clear the unthreaded part of the spindle. The end was faced at the same time to ensure concentric seating on the lathe spindle. I then tapped the threads, using the hole in the tailstock to keep the tap inline with the hole. Tapping then moved to the vise in the building’s hobby room. I then trued and cleaned up the outer diameter after mounting the unit on the spindle. Now I know that I can safely buy the steel for the real thing!
Lots of work done over the past week. Painted various aluminum items with airbrush using Model Master Enamel. Getting tired of the bad bearings in my spray booth though. I guess using a cooling fan from a 1970’s Univac 7105 plated Wire memory module wasn’t the best long term solution At least the fumes are exhausting outside, keeps me happy.
I am getting more comfortable with the using the airbrush for small parts, the thin layer of paint ensures that all the available detail remains visible. And for aluminum you cant beat spray. Also using CA to attach painted parts means that the paint doesn’t get messed up.
With the exception of some hoses (have to source that yet) the front section of the car is about done.
Now the moment I was waiting for, adding details to the model. I ordered the detailing workbook from Modeler’s Site, well worth the small price. I want to learn new techniques but also avoid a lot of trial and error. The quality of the photos in the pdf could be better but overall its guidance is helping a lot.
One challenge is to find scale wire, tubing etc. After a bit of research I decided to buy a few sizes of nylon fishing line. Using basic Rit dye (and adding some vinegar to the water) you can colour the nylon to anything you want. I aso use 30ga wire wrap wire, left over from my mainframe days. More details on the RH side of page under Model Info. I also ordered a set of 0.2-0.8mm carbide drills to make holes to insert the wires into.
The result so far:
Repairs to the broken suspension arms went very well. As you can see below, the front end of the car is coming together very well.
I used bleach to remove the damaged chrome from the brake discs. They were repainted gun metal. Some suspension bits needed re-repair, seems the ears were cracked from previous assembly attempts. The good news is that the rest of the model has no broken parts!
Since moving mid 2011, I finally have a room just for my hobbies. And the time to build kits etc.
So far I have build a 300SL, M1126 Stryker and a 1275S Mini Cooper. In progress are a Tyrrell P34 1/12 kit and a BF109K-4 in 1/48 scale. You can see details on the RH side.