With more parts to make, there are more tools to make 🙂
In making the main shaft, which mounts the flywheel and the exhaust valve, I needed to cut 3 flats 120 apart. From my stash of metals I dug out some hex and bored, then reamed for 10mm. A set screw finished that tool off. While cutting the 2.5mm slot in the end I broke the cutter.
After drilling the base plate, the next item was to drill the supports to the same pattern. This was a bit nerve wracking as there is not much wiggle room for ‘adjustments’.
To align the holes in middle of the supports I used a .375 rod in the mill arbor, and a parallel to make it align with the top surface of the support. The spindle was then in the middle, the vertical was then locked into place. The other position was aligned each time with a spotting drill and then drilled 4.2 for the m5 SHCS.
The bottom plate is up next. I need to mount the bearing/shaft supports so that I can measure dimension changes needed for the shafts. The material is Imperial, the drawings metric. Without redrawing everything I think this is my best approach to arriving at parts that fit together.
I bought a full set of ER32 collets so that I can use the horizontal mill for drilling as well as milling. I used a 5/16 end mill to counter-bore the holes, I really wanted to make some metric counter-bores, but need to use the tool grinder to finish those. The end mill worked out ok but not great. Thankfully I am the only one who will see the 2 bores that are out of center 🙂
After cleaning up the lathe and removing some surface rust, it was time to make a bench. Having a good selection of used heating pipes in various diameters up to 4” provided lots of options. A gifted Mig welder topped off the setup.
Pipes and 1 1/2×1 1/2 angle iron were cut to length and welded up into 3 leg assemblies. 2 layers of wood bonded together form the top. The 2 main areas are further strengthen with 2×4’s on edge, glued and screwed to the bottom of the top.
The end result is a very sturdy arrangement for the lathe and milling machine.
I am now proficient at boring! Both to size and to depth, without a DRO. There are 6 bearings to counter bore for and a hole to prep for tapping M12x1.5.
The general sequence for each hole was to align the workpiece to the collet/spindle using an 8mm HSS ground tool rod. The table height was fixed after the first alignment process. Once the work could move on the rod easily, I switched out to the boring head. I found a 0.7mm depth of cut was my limit for stressing the head and its small 6mm bar. After lots of setting changes to get to the correct diameter, it was on to the next hole.